The Making of a Custom Suit!


From concept to sourcing materials to drafting a pattern to creating a test fit and then the final product, custom orders are SO much fun for me...and SO much work. :) But I genuinely love the process of designing something just for YOU! In this blog, I want to share the process of bringing a custom garment to life.

Before I tell you about the very fun, challenging, and exciting process of creating a custom suit, I must introduce you to my friend (and fellow designer!), Nhu Nhu! Nhu Nhu designs jewelry and has her own brand Mochi Mochi. She handmakes everything herself as well. Each piece is so unique and elegant. :)

Nhu Nhu came to me knowing that she wanted a pink houndstooth suit with sparkly fringe. She likes things a little "extra" (as she likes to put it!), so I was very excited to tackle this unique project.

I started by sourcing fabrics from pink tweeds and knit fabric until I landed on one both Nhu Nhu and I loved. 

fabric sourcing - fashion design blog
I sourced way more fabric swatches than what's pictured, but here is just a few :)
houndstooth fabric - custom fashion
This is the fabric that we chose^
This pink houndstooth fabric had some stretch to it (it's actually a knit fabric), so we decided it didn't need a lining. Nhu Nhu liked the idea of a "cardigan"-like style for the cropped blazer. She chose to have no lining (only facings), no shoulder pads, and no additional trims that give a suit jacket structure in order to achieve a more relaxed fit blazer. I also sourced some sparkly fringe and buttons. 
button sourcing - fashion designer
fringe - fashion design process
Next, I created a custom pattern just for Nhu Nhu. I drafted the pattern on paper and made a test fit. A test fit is like a first trial for the design. I take my first pattern draft and cut it out of scrap fabric. The test fit fabric has to have similar properties (weight, stretch, drape) to the fabric I plan on using for the final product so that I know the fit will be accurate once I am ready to make the final product. 
Next, I sew the test fit together and see what needs adjusted for the final garment. For this test fit I adjusted the length of the skirt and blazer. 
fashion design process - slow fashion blog
After creating a sample that I was happy with, I was ready to cut into the actual fabric. 
houndstooth suit - custom fashion 
fashion design blogger - womens custom made suit
fashion design - custom suit womens
custom fashion designer - sustainable fashion blog
Now the BEST part- seeing Nhu Nhu really bring the suit to life!
custom fashion design
custom fashion designer
fashion designer - slow fashion blog
Nhu Nhu and me in the Eloise dress in red 
Email me at info@emilywestenberger.com if you have any questions about ordering a custom piece. If you're ready to order, schedule a consultation with me here. :)

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